A Journey By Hakuba Valley’s Deep Snow and Wealthy Tradition
Featured Picture: Hiraya Nakata
MY FIRST TURN off the ridge wasn’t very steep—a mild, 25-degree pitch. Fats flakes had been falling from above and the snow was stacking up at two inches per hour as I dropped in. I gained momentum because the gradient steepened, and the seemingly bottomless snow billowed up round my torso. I targeted on browsing throughout the highest; I didn’t need to dive too deep and threat pairing an extra-long face shot with an unintentional encounter with one of many completely spaced bushes I used to be snowboarding amongst. I made a dozen dreamy powder smears earlier than pulling off behind a tree to attend for my companion.
It was our first day of the journey, and we each agreed on a conservative strategy whereas we gained our bearings within the new terrain. As I radioed as much as him, I felt a faint, prickly sensation on the again of my neck—the unusual sensation you get while you really feel such as you’re being watched. My companion dropped in, playfully porpoising his method towards me via the freeze-dried ocean, and set free a stoke-filled yelp. Simply then, I heard a lightweight rustling within the branches behind me.
My journey to Hakuba Valley, Japan, had taken me via Tokyo’s Narita Airport and on to the capital metropolis’s bustling central practice station. As soon as there, I boarded the Shinkansen—a glossy, ultra-modern bullet practice that whisks vacationers via the countryside at speeds approaching 200 miles per hour. Though the thrill surrounding my first journey to the ‘Land of the Rising Solar’ had been effervescent inside me for months, the smooth hum of the aerodynamic missile I used to be using, coupled with the speedy emergence of the serene winter snowscape, offered me with a much-appreciated sense of calm.
I reclined into consolation as I watched the managed chaos of the Japanese metropolis shortly fade into the space. The mountains started to come into sight however had been shortly eclipsed by a wall of moisture- laden clouds that laid a contemporary carpet of white gold throughout the slender island nation—an ordinary state of affairs for one of many world’s snowiest locales. With just below an hour remaining on my 90-minute, high- pace practice journey, it was the right time to dive into slightly deal with I picked up earlier than boarding. I opened the ekiben, a fastidiously ready Japanese boxed lunch, and marveled on the element within the preparation of the high-end grab-and-go meal.
There’s one thing uniquely satisfying about having fun with a wonderfully portioned sushi and pickled vegetable meal whereas hurtling via the countryside at breakneck speeds. The juxtaposition was virtually laughable: there I used to be, having fun with an historic culinary custom within the confines of a practice that felt extra like a spaceship. And, in true Japanese style, it one way or the other all felt completely balanced. By the point we pulled into Nagano Station, I had completed my meal and was primed for the ultimate leg of my journey. The hour-long bus journey from Nagano to Hakuba Valley glided by shortly as I chatted with an older, lifelong native who shared an attention-grabbing story.
Talking softly via the grey Fu Manchu that adorned his weathered face, he leaned in direction of me and spoke of a quiet secret that the mountainous forests cover on the island of Honshu—Japan’s foremost island. He was talking of the animal generally known as the kamoshika. Between his damaged English and completely choreographed hand gestures, he painted the image of a regal but tranquil antelope-goat hybrid with a thick, grayish-brown fur coat and small rearward-curving horns. Probably the most attention-grabbing a part of his story, nonetheless, was the folklore that surrounds its existence.
Identified to nimbly navigate rocky cliff faces, I used to be instructed it’s a terrific praise to be known as kamoshika—a time period bestowed upon the best Japanese skiers. He proclaimed that those that are capable of spot considered one of these quiet, extremely camouflaged creatures will expertise good luck for years to return. As I weighed the validity of his legend and thought of the implications of recognizing this legendary entity, a quick window within the clouds unveiled a fleeting view of the dramatic excessive peaks of the jagged Japanese Alps. The historical past of this sacred mountain kingdom started to penetrate my being.
Though Hakuba Valley receives legendary quantities of snow, it could be a mistake to easily concentrate on the unending pow. The amount and kind of terrain that may be accessed, particularly when the visibility is obvious, is nothing in need of astounding. From giant, open bowls to steep spines and fields of playful pillows, the choices are limitless. The go-to, nonetheless—particularly when gyoza-sized flakes are piling up—are the superbly spaced birch and pine forests you may acknowledge from images and movies plastered throughout social media.
On that first fateful ski day, in a forest very similar to the aforementioned, my companion emerged from a billowing contrail of chilly smoke and raised his goggles, exposing a glance of bewilderment. With a strong gaze fastened over my shoulder, he slowly murmured, “What the hell is that?” I turned, and throughout a small gully, standing completely nonetheless amidst the bushes, was the blurry define of the legendary kamoshika. Mirage-like—its fur blended seamlessly with the bushes and snow, its darkish eyes educated on us, unblinking, as if it had been sizing us up. My coronary heart was pounding. Was this it? The animal that I’d half- satisfied myself was nothing greater than a tall story instructed by an imaginative, aged man—was it really actual? We didn’t transfer. We simply stood there for what appeared like an eternity, staring on the grey apparition. Then, with out provocation, it turned and disappeared into the woods, as quietly because it had appeared.
AFTER THE DAY’S remarkably deep snowboarding and questionable wildlife sighting, we had been in want of rejuvenation. One of the best treatment was a soak in considered one of Japan’s sacred onsens. These pure sizzling springs are greater than only a place to submerge drained muscle tissues; they’re a part of a centuries-old custom rooted in Japanese tradition—a ritual of purification and leisure. As I shuffled via the doorway, steam permeated my pores and skin and warmed me from inside. The therapeutic course of had begun. Perched upon a small stool, I carried out the necessary pre-soak bathing earlier than sliding into the massive pool. The mineral-rich sizzling water enveloped me and immediately, melted away the muscle aches.
There’s a cause the Japanese contemplate onsens to be therapeutic, and it’s not simply due to the minerals. It’s the stillness, the ritual and the solitude that make it sacred. In that serene steam, I felt linked to one thing deeper, tapping into an historic observe that had been honed to perfection over generations. The misty haze that clung to the floor of the quiet oasis parted simply lengthy sufficient to disclose the growing older face of the previous man I spoke with on the bus. He slowly pressed his palms collectively underneath his chin and lowered his head right into a bow. Earlier than I had an opportunity to react, the fog thickened, and the person’s silhouette melted into the mist. My buddy turned to me, his face pale, as if he’d simply seen a ghost.
The subsequent morning, I awoke early and was pleasantly stunned to see the solar bursting over the jagged ridge of the Japanese Alps. With Hakuba Valley’s bounty of excessive alpine terrain on full show, it was the right alternative to check the terrain above the treeline. We made our solution to the highest of a wide-open bowl that sat inside gazing distance of a dozen-plus serrated, Alaska-esque backbone strains. The views had been surreal. Finally, we picked our jaws up off the glistening snow. For the morning’s goal, we selected to descend a distinguished ridgeline that led us to a west-facing cirque, laden with mild ribs that naturally subdivided the terrain.
With an in depth plan in place, my companion and I leapfrogged our method down the seemingly infinite expanse under. There have been no bushes in sight as we dove to the underside of the crystalline sea. Flip after flip, I bought mouthfuls of snow earlier than surfacing for a breath of chilly mountain air after which descending for one more serving to. We had been comfortable to indulge within the all-you-can-eat breakfast buffet of Japanese blower pow. Lastly, with our legs begging for a break, we headed to a small sushi and ramen restaurant to recharge.
We seated ourselves in a nook that offered a wonderfully framed view of the morning’s first run, which, after I suppose again, stood out because the crown jewel of the whole journey. Our server shortly appeared, as if he had materialized out of skinny air, and I instantly acknowledged the all-knowing look on his well-worn face. He turned to me and quietly mentioned, “You may have skilled the best of luck on the mountain in the present day.” Not sure if this was a query or an announcement, I respectfully responded, “Sure, we have now. And thanks.”
At that second, I noticed the legend of the kamoshika had little to do with the existence of an animal; it was extra concerning the connection between man and nature—a reminder that typically the best rewards come while you least count on them. Hakuba Valley gave me extra than simply legendary snowboarding, environment friendly transportation and soothing sizzling springs. It had bestowed upon me a journey that blended fashionable comfort with deep cultural custom—a visit that left me each exhilarated and at peace. Maybe it was good planning, however extra doubtless it was a contact of luck delivered by the ‘GrayGhost.’
Journey Ideas
HAKUBA VALLEY RESORTS
TOTAL NUMBER OF RESORTS: 10
TOTAL CHAIRLIFTS: 126
SKIABLE ACRES: 2,325
AVERAGE ANNUAL SNOWFALL: 32-42 ft
HOW TO GET THERE
Fly to Tokyo
Tokyo has two worldwide airports—Narita (NRT) and Haneda (HND). Narita is situated just below 40 miles from Tokyo’s metropolis middle, whereas Haneda is simply over 10 miles away.
Board the Bullet Prepare to Nagano
From HND, hop on the Tokyo Monorail to Hamamatsu-cho and switch to the JR Keihin- Tohoku or JR Yamanote Traces to the Tokyo Station (Journey Time: half-hour). Get off on the Yaesu (East) aspect of the station and comply with bilingual indicators to the Shinkansen (bullet practice) ticket gates. Tickets could be bought as much as 38 days upfront (Journey Time: 90 minutes).
WHERE TO STAY
Hakuba Mominoki Resort
A easy but refined lodging with an reasonably priced price ticket, the Mominoki Resort presents a sequence of multi-night packages (which embody breakfast) and is centrally situated to lots of Hakuba’s resorts. The closest, Happo One Ski Resort, is lower than a 5 minute stroll. The on-site “Magnificence Bathtub” onsen has one of many highest pH ranges in Hakuba, making your pow day restoration a cinch.
evo Resort Hakuba
New for the 2024-25 season, evo’s Resort Hakuba takes a contemporary strategy to resort design. With a concentrate on neighborhood areas for like-minded adventurers, the brand new lodging features a soothing onsen, continental breakfast, bar, lounge and resort shuttles.
Hoshino Resorts KAI Alps
When you’re searching for a 4-star expertise, the KAI Alps retreat awaits your go to. From Tsukemono pickling workshops to breathtaking onsen entry and conventional Japanese fireside gatherings, KAI Alps presents a rural and real Japan expertise. The resort is about half-hour type the closest resort and presents every day free shuttles.
BEYOND THE RESORT
Discover the Nagano Area
Positioned simply over an hour from Hakuba, town of Nagano is a superb place to spend a day or in a single day throughout your journey. Spend the day visiting the Snow Monkey Park to marvel on the little creatures as they lounge within the pure onsens. Higher but, deal with your self to an opulent spa day and let your pow legs get well at one of many many pure Onsen resorts. At night time, make sure to go to the Matsumoto Fortress to catch the beautiful gentle exhibits or feast your method via the slender metropolis streets with a guided meals tour.
Backcountry Snowboarding
If the solace of a backcountry tour calls your title, make sure to take a look at the numerous backcountry guiding companies in Hakuba Valley. Spend the day within the untracked powder fields surrounding the valley the place you’ll purchase a brand new definition for the phrase ‘deep.’
PRO TIPS ON EXPERIENCING HAKUBA
Epic Cross, Epic Native Cross and Epic Australia passes embody a complimentary 5-consecutive-day Hakuba Valley All Mountain Raise Cross that may be picked up at a delegated ticket window of any of the Hakuba Valley snow resorts.
January and February are sometimes the resorts’ busiest months of the yr, so planning a visit in March might assist you to expertise the snowboarding, surroundings and genuine Japanese tradition with fewer individuals in your method.
This story initially appeared in FREESKIER Journal Quantity 27 Concern 2. Click on right here to subscribe to FREESKIER and have print copies (sure, actual print magazines!) delivered proper to your door.
