[Editor’s Note: This article first appeared on our sister site, ExplorersWeb.]
Final week, after two prior makes an attempt to set a quickest identified time (FKT) on Mount Everest, runner and mountaineer Tyler Andrews launched a last-ditch try to attain the fastest-ever no-oxygen ascent of the very best peak on the planet, elevation 8,848 meters (29,032 toes). This third try was simply three days after a earlier one, and with the mountain about to shut for the climbing season. Sadly, like his earlier two makes an attempt, the third one additionally ended earlier than the summit. Whereas he was initially shifting at a tempo that put the pace document inside his grasp, after hours with out communication and his stay tracker apparently not shifting, his staff shared the information: Tyler had circled at 8,450 meters (27,700 toes).
The route up the mountain extends from Everest Base Camp, situated at 5,364 meters (17,598 toes) altitude, by means of the Khumbu Icefall, previous Camps 1 by means of 4, and onto the South Col earlier than climbing up onto the huge ridgeline extending to the summit. All instructed, the route is one thing within the neighborhood of 13.5 kilometers (8.4 miles) lengthy from base camp to the summit, with on the order of three,500 meters (11,500 toes) of climb by means of mountaineering terrain of all types.
After three makes an attempt to set an FKT on Mount Everest, Tyler Andrews was in the end stymied in his ambitions. On this picture, Andrews trains within the Himalayas forward of his makes an attempt. All images courtesy of Tyler Andrews.
Andrews, 35, has seen success in quite a lot of totally different disciplines throughout each operating and high-altitude mountaineering. In 2021, he gained the Javelina 100k, and that very same yr, he positioned fifteenth on the Leadville 100 Mile. Earlier, in 2016, he positioned second on the IAU 50k World Championships, and he was topped the USATF 50-mile nationwide champion when he gained the Tussey Mountainback 50 Mile in 2019. In recent times, he’s targeted extra on massive mountain efforts, and he at the moment holds the FKT for the round-trip climbs of 8,163-meter (26,781 toes) Manaslu and 6,812-meter (22,349 toes) Ama Dablam in Nepal. In 2023, he set FKTs on Mount Kilimanjaro (5,895 meters/19,341 toes) in Tanzania and Aconcagua (6,961 meters/22,837 toes) in Argentina.
Now considerably recovered from an exhaustion he says he has by no means earlier than skilled, Andrews has defined what many have been questioning: What occurred up there on the third and ultimate try?
The First Two Makes an attempt
After spending weeks within the spring of 2025 coaching on the slopes of Mount Everest, Andrews made his first try on the mountain with no supplemental oxygen on Might 10. Sadly, he acquired circled by points along with his boot round Camp 3 at 7,200 meters (23,600 toes). He made a second try on the mountain on Might 23, regardless of excessive winds raking the mountain. Andrews mentioned his purpose to move up regardless of the climate was the identical that prompted Karl Egloff of Ecuador, additionally pursuing an Everest FKT, to start out his personal run simply a few hours earlier than Andrews. The “Icefall Docs,” a staff of Sherpas who keep a collection of ladders and ropes by means of the treacherous Khumbu Icefall, a characteristic created the place the Khumbu Glacier breaks splits aside into huge, shifting blocks over very steep terrain, needed to shut the route on Might 25 as a consequence of warming circumstances, which causes the ice to shift extra quickly.
“They mentioned the icefall was shifting too quick, there had been some collapses, and it was not secure,” says Andrews. He believed his solely choice was to go up or go residence.
Due to the climate, Andrews determined to make use of supplemental oxygen, which can assist mountaineers transfer quicker and keep hotter at excessive altitudes, and take a look at for the general document on the mountain as an alternative of the no-oxygen one. Andrews left Everest Base Camp on Might 23 at round 8 p.m. native time. For security, he began utilizing supplementary oxygen at Camp 2.
“Meteorologists, medical doctors, my expedition chief, all of them instructed me: Don’t go up with out oxygen, it’s too chilly, too windy, you’ll not attain the summit, and you’ll lose fingers and toes.”
Tyler Andrews throughout one among his many coaching and acclimatization climbs on Mount Everest.
Neither Andrews nor Egloff have been profitable. Egloff circled shortly after Camp 3, and for Andrews, too, the wind in the end dominated the day. Shortly after Camp 4, his expedition chief, Dawa Steven Sherpa, made the decision to abort Andrews’ try and withdraw all his staff from the mountain due to the excessive winds on the higher sections.
Andrews descended to base camp throughout the evening of Might 24 and flew to the Nepalese capital metropolis of Kathmandu the next day, considering he was ending his climbing season. When he hopped on the helicopter, he was positive there can be no extra alternatives. However again in Kathmandu, one thing surprising occurred.
“We realized that the large Indian Military staff had failed on their summit push on Might 23, additionally as a consequence of excessive winds,” defined Andrews. “Due to their affect, [the Icefall Doctors would keep] the mountain open three or 4 days extra.”
Snap Resolution
Andrews mentioned, “I didn’t really feel like I had left all I had on the [previous] try, so after I returned to Kathmandu, I had evening of sleep and awoke the subsequent morning to listen to that the Indian staff was happening the Might 27 in good climate. I instantly began considering that one other try was possible and after a complete bunch of telephone calls to Dawa, my household, and my staff …we determined, properly, okay, let’s give it a go!”
Andrews flew again to Everest Base Camp and set off that very same evening, Might 26, on a no-oxygen run towards the summit of Everest.
Catastrophe at 8,000 Meters
“[On the final attempt,] every thing went fairly properly till Camp 4,” Andrews defined.
He admits that his tempo slowed between Camp 3 and Camp 4. As a result of on this last-minute try, he had much less assist and needed to carry a a lot heavier backpack containing his high-altitude gear. As an alternative of crew members in any respect the camps, as on his earlier tries, on Might 26 and 27, he had a assist staff at Camp 4 for emergencies, however in any other case, he was alone. That slowed him down slightly, however in any other case had no bearing on his ultimate resolution.
Somewhat, one thing went improper simply after leaving Camp 4 at 7,950 meters (26,000 toes), some 12.5 hours after departure.
“I had one among my gels and vomited it instantly, which is one thing that had by no means occurred to me earlier than. Possibly it was the altitude or exhaustion, however in all probability I ought to have returned to camp and tried to eat one thing else.”
However Andrews selected to proceed up, and shortly he turned unable to handle his remaining vitality. “On all ultramarathons, dropping the final two hours of dietary revenue means you’re in massive hassle,” he defined.
“Truthfully, after I left Camp 4, I used to be positive there was no manner I used to be not making the document,” Andrews mentioned. “Within the worst-case situation, attending to the highest would take me seven to eight hours, and that will nonetheless be below the document. However it was simply a lot slower than that.”
Tyler Andrews above the clouds on the slopes of Mount Everest.
Hallucinations within the Snow
“I ran out of gasoline, I used to be completely fried up there,” he admits. “Additionally, at that time, I had misplaced communication, so it was a really lonely stretch. I used to be above the Balcony [a flatter area on the long ridge to the summit of Everest] after I realized I used to be not going to succeed in the summit that day, and I didn’t even have contact with base camp.”
Nonetheless, he hesitated, however hallucinations lastly satisfied him to retreat.
“What actually determined me to make the decision was that I began having hallucinations from fatigue. I’d take a look at the snow and see geometrical shapes and faces, stuff like that. I knew this stuff weren’t there, however I nonetheless might see them, and that was fairly alarming. As well as, the route above the Balcony is technical and uncovered. I had by no means been there earlier than, and I used to be completely by myself, with nobody on the mountain. I made a decision I couldn’t have the document safely in that state, and my priorities are getting the document and getting again down safely; each issues equally vital.”
Andrews then circled and made his manner again to Camp 4. There, he rested after which continued down with the intention to cross the icefall and attain base camp the next evening.
No Exterior Stress
Andrews denies he felt below any exterior stress to bag the document.
“If something, some individuals instructed I shouldn’t do the final try. All of the stress got here from myself. I actually, actually needed to do it.”
As for the bodily pressure of the 2 earlier makes an attempt, Andrews mentioned he often recovers shortly from intense efforts. He additionally felt that he had not used all his vitality throughout the second try as a result of the push was halted earlier than he reached the summit.
Whereas Andrews and Egloff have prevented commenting on one another, their respective Might 23 makes an attempt to run up Everest highlighted this as a race between two contenders. Nonetheless, Andrews refuses to take a look at the problem that manner.
“Truthfully, I by no means noticed this as a contest; I knew Karl [Egloff] was there, I knew he had his personal staff and was trying an analogous FKT, however I needed to hold targeted on myself and my staff. You possibly can’t management what others do. It isn’t totally different from a marathon, by which you’re clearly not the one participant, however one of the best ways to go is simply attempt to run your finest race.”
After two prior failed makes an attempt, Andrews was wanting to strive a 3rd time. He’s pictured coaching on the mountain.
Identical Place Subsequent Yr?
After the spectacular however heartbreaking effort, does Andrews need to strive once more sooner or later?
“If I could make it work financially, I’ll positively be again,” he replied. “It’s a large price by way of cash, vitality, and time, nevertheless it’s an vital mission for me. I’m 100% positive I’m able to it.”
Certainly, Everest is way from turning into cheaper or much less industrial. But Andrews admits it’s a very particular place.
“I nonetheless really feel that the Khumbu Valley and these mountains, that are the tallest on Earth, are very, very particular. That mentioned, there are an terrible lot of individuals there, a few of whom present much less respect to the mountain and nature than I’d prefer to see. However I feel most are there as a result of they need to push themselves and expertise being in such a singular place. To me, watching others try tremendously exhausting for one thing they care about is tremendous significant.”
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