Gliding throughout the legendary Loch Ness aboard the Spirit of Scotland – a five-star barge navigating the Caledonian Canal – felt like one thing out of a dream. The solar was shining (uncommon magic in Scotland), and solely by crusing by way of it could one actually grasp the vastness of Loch Ness. The Scottish Highlands’ surroundings is breathtaking, and the sense of peace is past examine. European Waterways has nailed the artwork of luxurious barge journey with over 40 years crusing and serving.
The Starting
We have been picked up in Inverness and delivered in minutes to Muirtown’s marina with a champagne welcome aboard the Spirit of Scotland. We’d anticipated cramped quarters beneath deck however have been pleasantly shocked to discover a navigable cabin with ample area and a snug mattress. We rapidly unpacked and grabbed umbrellas by the door to discover the environment on a misty day.
Alongside the way in which we chatted with locals strolling their canines by the water’s fringe of Moray and Beauly Firths. We acknowledged Kessock Bridge, having seen it final 12 months from Citadel Stuart Golf Course and sang, “We’ve seen Kessock from either side now.”
Our Crew
Cruise Director – Olivia – Captain Liv has labored practically each position in a number of nations, besides piloting. Now she leads the staff with easy grace by way of every week freed from hiccups.
The Pilot – Krishna – Essentially the most fascinating human on the boat, Krishna is a voice-over artist, actor, vintner, creator, former theater supervisor in London, and founding father of a cricket membership (whose honorary president is Mick Jagger!). He has piloted sizzling air balloons, and barges for many years and with many a story to share, he’s mentoring the subsequent era of pilots with knowledge: “The much less you do, the higher it really works out.”
The Deckhand – Tom – From Ipswitch like his sister, Liv, Tom inherited a knack for retelling historical past. Ever useful with readying bikes, the spa, dealing with the ropes or apprenticing as helmsman, he displays a form demeanor.
The Hosts – Sara Lou and Lauren – Sarah Lou with an esprit de vivre introduces wine and cheese with a seductive French accent whereas Lauren ensures you don’t miss “a bit” together with her pretty British lilt. Their duties are limitless, they usually full them tirelessly.
The Chef – Jim – A person of few phrases, Jim was indubitably the star of the present displaying his culinary prowess with Michelin artistry. The Scot studied in Jersey and set the gastronomical stage for the cruise serving a braised beef dinner that blew us away. He did warn in his introduction (with champagne and canapes) that his purpose was to make our garments not match by the cruise’s conclusion. He’s an over achiever. Jim is a wiz at concocting connoisseur meals with particular sauces, native seafood, mysterious microgreens and irresistible desserts. His foraging and taste composition made each morsel sensible.
Our Barge
Modeled after conventional Scottish steamers, the Spirit of Scotland is a lodge barge designed for an intimate and splendid expertise, welcoming as much as 12 visitors in six fashionable, air-conditioned cabins positioned beneath the principle deck, every with its personal en-suite bathe/rest room and three sizeable portholes – good for watching the surroundings drift by at water degree.
The captain’s bridge sits entrance and heart on the principle deck, with an open-air walkway across the entrance. Behind the pilot’s space, residing areas unfold generously – from the comfortable open bar, sport nook, and plush seating to the eating room with its grand home windows, all the way in which to the again deck with snug chairs and a heated spa pool.
A spiral staircase results in the highest deck – our favourite, most expansive viewing space. Right here you’ll be able to strike the long-lasting “Titanic” pose on the rail (with a far happier ending) or recline beneath a blanket because the Scottish Highlands float previous.
Whereas the route is professionally navigated, you’ll be able to rely on getting misplaced. Misplaced in your ideas as you sit on the highest deck with the breeze in your hair. Misplaced within the marvel of the Highlands’ uncooked magnificence. And but, it’s possible you’ll acquire one thing too – maybe perspective, a renewed appreciation for all times, or perhaps a quiet reset of your objectives and objective. Such is the impact of being aboard the Spirit of Scotland.
Day by day Cruises
Day 1 Dochgarroch
“Make prepared, Tom,” Krishna indicators the beginning of the cruise, and we’re all excited for take-off. We again out, passing different moored boats within the marina because the Tomnahurich bridge swings open for us. Commuter vehicles wait whereas pedestrians wave as we glide by way of to our first flight of locks. It was the primary of many, but every one fascinated us anew – chatting with the lockkeepers and watching the pet parades.
Locks are feats of engineering which have stood the check of time, far outperforming many more moderen options. Timing is essential: the operation should be set in movement excellent to lock and unlock the gates, permitting the water ranges to vary and raise or decrease boats on the canal. Conversations spark between boaters as we wait or share the lock. The barge is gradual whereas time speeds by. We have been in for a heavenly week.
Whereas docked in Dochgarroch, we have been whisked off to Cawdor Citadel, with gardens to rival the perfect, like Butchart Gardens in Victoria, British Colombia. Cawdor was immortalized by Shakespeare’s Macbeth and featured in scenes from numerous movie variations. The dowager Countess of Cawdor nonetheless lives within the fort a part of the 12 months and it’s wonderful.
Day 2 Fort Augustus
After a morning stroll alongside the parallel river and a motorbike journey to identify the shaggy Highland “furry coos,” we visited Culloden Moor the place the museum and battlefield tour introduced the historical past of kings, queens and Jacobites to life in dramatic and shifting trend. Later we stopped on the mystical standing stones that impressed Outlander, the beloved e-book and common TV collection that includes Claire, aka “Sassenach,” and Jamie, her time-traveling Highlander love. Returning to the Spirit of Scotland we have been handled like royalty – grateful to not be transported to the hardships of earlier centuries.
We then cruised all afternoon by way of Loch Dochfour and throughout Loch Ness to Fort Augustus. Purple heather waved from the hills between the woodlands, with occasional historic ruins, together with the spectacular Urquhart Citadel. There Krishna pirouetted our Spirit of Scotland in salute so we might totally take in its splendor. 4 hours zipped by with postcard-perfect views at each flip.
Day 3 Kytra
We cherished the full of life city of Fort Augustus, with its bustling outlets and pubs alongside the flight of lochs – and the flights of birds of prey at The Highland Membership. Initially inbuilt 1720 by order of Normal Wade as a fort by the locks (as a result of galleons), it later turned a Benedictine Monastery, then St. Benedictine’s Abbey. As historical past performed out its sophisticated and sordid chapters, it will definitely closed and is now a sought-after non-public residence advanced.
It was a spectacular backdrop for the interactive hen demonstration. A hefty glove protected these courageous sufficient for the birds of prey to alight on their arm. First got here Dougie, a six-year-old South American barn owl with inquisitive eyes and velvety-soft head feathers which he favored to have petted. Subsequent got here Harris the hawk, then Angus who shocked everybody by touchdown not simply on arms however on our heads! The grand finale was a regal bald eagle, heavy and majestic. Assembly a bald eagle’s gaze because it rests in your arm is a second you’ll always remember, whereas attempting to switch the thought: “I’m not meals.”
We shared this unimaginable expertise with “Portlanders” from Oregon, aboard Spirit of Scotland’s sister barge, The Scottish Highlander, piloted by one other Frenchman, Captain Daniel. Our ships shared the Fort Augustus lock, passing in reverse instructions on the midway level for every journey. Hats off to the pilots navigating such slim passages. We docked for the evening in close by Kytra.
Day 4 Laggan
For a brief part reaching the lock at Leviothan, we walked alongside the canal, admiring the panorama up shut. We met an 89-year-old woman backpacking solo, in search of a café in what gave the impression to be probably the most distant spot of our route. We assured her Fort Augustus had all of it. Later our barge mates stated she waved and shouted one thing like “keep alive!” – or possibly she was singing, Stayin’ Alive. Both approach, her daughters observe her cellphone to make sure she’s nonetheless kicking.
Whereas ready for Spirit of Scotland, we helped the “ginger household” from England – a redheaded household of 4, plus a purple canine – handle their ropes by way of the lock. Bikes and wetsuits in tow, they have been off on their weeklong canal vacation. We reboarded after the lock and set sail to Laggan, with a bit Monet surroundings alongside the way in which.
After lunch we motored off to Eileen Donan, probably the most photographed fort in Scotland – made well-known by motion pictures like The Highlander and James Bond’s The World is Not Sufficient. The minibus rides to every landmark have been a scenic extension of the Highlands’ pure mosaic – woodlands, wildflowers and herds of sheep, swine, and the long-lasting furry coos.
Day 5 Banavie
Our remaining day was very valuable, being the final cruise. We crossed Loch Lochy to Gairlochy, rejoined the canal, and continued by way of Moy Bridge to our remaining mooring close to Fort William, beneath Ben Nevis, the best peak in Nice Britain. Simply steps away was the famed Neptune’s Staircase: a dramatic set of eight locks enabling passage from the North Sea to the Atlantic Ocean. Each lock was a reminder of how Dad “shocked” Mother every anniversary with a go to to the Eisenhower Locks on the St. Lawrence Seaway. We had just one lock expertise throughout our 12-year lake home restoration in New York – on the Erie Canal, however we have been recognized on our lake because the couple who spent probably the most time on the water.
This week? It was like our personal perpetual pontoon journey on steroids, however with a crew of six, only for us. All chill; all pleasure.
Our remaining tour was to the Dalwhinnie Distillery, inbuilt 1898. It’s the best, coldest distillery in Scotland however the mash room was steamy, the tutorial tasting tour participating. Apparently, it’s now owned by Diageo – the identical firm that owns Bulleit in Kentucky, the place we visited again in Could. Cue the tune: “It’s a small world, in any case.”
Our Surprises
Every day introduced fastidiously orchestrated surprises, courtesy of Liv. Scottish visitors in full regalia, a reside dress-up session with Ian in historic garb. Alan, the kilt maker and bagpiper joked as he defined the instrument, the clans, and the sporran which he quipped is “a job supply.”
Sean and Hannah delighted us with jigs, reels, and a dance lesson. On request, they sang the theme from Outlander – “Sing me a music of a lass that’s gone…” Impressed by their artistry, the thespian in Krishna emerged with an eloquent soliloquy to cap off the night.
And at each meal, one other shock awaited: a aggressive tablescape, maybe with shells, fungi or florals, and all the time with creatively folded napkins. The finale? Tuxedo formed napkins on the captain’s dinner. Valuable moments abounded aboard the Spirit of Scotland.
Golf Charters
The Spirit of Scotland embodies the spirit of vacationers. Non-public entire barge golf cruises can be found on this and lots of extra of the European Waterway barges. It contains 3-4 tee offs and a minimum of 4 passengers should be taking part in golf. Non-golf gamers are welcome to affix, in fact. And there are many choices for them to do as an alternative (observe the unique Basic Cruise itinerary plan, discover at leisure on foot or on one of many barge bicycles, or one thing else to go well with their pursuits which could be mentioned on the time of reserving).
Scottish Highlands Golf may embody Cabot Highlands’ Stuart Citadel Golf Course or Fortrose and Rosemarkie Golf Course amongst others, relying on the timing of the cruise.
2026 pricing for a 6-night cruise aboard the 12-passenger Spirit of Scotland begins at USD $6850 per particular person (primarily based on 2 folks sharing a cabin) and contains all connoisseur meals, positive wines, an open bar throughout the cruise, day by day escorted excursions, admissions, and personal transfers at both finish of the cruise. Full barge charters can be found for households, teams and golfers. Charters are additionally accessible in Eire, France and extra.
Golf Your self
You may all the time organize a publish or pre cruise golf vacation by yourself. After the cruise, we rented a automotive for an in a single day keep on the Isle of Skye, house to a enjoyable 9-hole seaside course. Driving on the left aspect of the single-track mountain roads is so loopy it seems like a relentless “break for affect” mode within the passenger seat, however well worth the excellent views.
We stopped in to take a look at Previous Petty at Cabot Highlands, simply opened for preview play, parallel to Citadel Stuart which we loved final 12 months. It’s one other magnificent gem with holes alongside Moray Firth and a pair up near the caste. We additionally walked Fortrose Rosemarkie for the primary time – a beautiful observe with a street between fairways for locals to go to the lighthouse and look ahead to dolphins.
As blasphemous as it would sound, we didn’t play golf this journey and it was one in every of our most spectacular journeys. We had performed 11 rounds in 17 days in Scotland the earlier 12 months and can return for extra golf, however we extremely suggest the European Waterways barge cruises with or with out the golf. Contact www.europeanwaterways.com for a visit of a lifetime with household, pals, fellow golfers or your personal fortunate selves.
