Gastein: The Most Romantic Destination in the Alps?

Lengthy-time guests to the Austrian Alps will know its greatest names: St. Anton, St. Christoph, Hopfgarten, Kitzbühel, and Ischgl—amongst others. But one resort that repeatedly sweeps under a lot of the UK’s radar today is the Gastein Valley on the massive Ski amadé move, a mere half-an-hour-drive from its well-known neighbour, Zell am See.

I had the possibility to go to Gastein this winter season to pattern a few of the greatest actions the resort affords. The valley is well reached through Salzburg Airport, with every day flights from London, Birmingham, and Newcastle, or for a extra enjoyable, eco-friendlier choice you possibly can journey the unique method and take the prepare direct to Unhealthy Gastein Station (see the ultimate part under).

Salzburg is a wonderful medieval metropolis and nicely value a protracted stopover or separate go to you probably have probability. Classical music followers will know its most well-known son, Mozart, and may attend the numerous concert events and festivals the town hosts for his music.

Nevertheless, my vacation spot this time spherical was the mountain peaks of western Austria. After a picturesque hour-and-a-half drive by means of cattle nation and pine forests, I arrived in Gastein.

Gastein: the overview

The Gastein Valley contains 4 major areas: Unhealthy Hofgastein (857m), the most important and busiest city within the valley’s base; Unhealthy Gastein (1,002m), the historic coronary heart of the resort; Sportgastein (1,590m), the very best basecamp within the valley with the very best off-piste snowboarding; and Dorfgastein (830m), a quieter space on the valley’s mouth, catering extra for locals than vacationers.

With a Ski amadé move, friends have entry to over 200km of piste in Gastein, in addition to 4 different areas within the surrounding space accessible by automotive (Hochkönig, Grossarltal, Schladming-Dachstein, & Salzburger Sportwelt). Resort facilities embrace free Ski amadé Wi-Fi in most on-slope eating places and elevate stations, and free shuttle buses to get you round, included within the value of a elevate move.

Gastein’s inexperienced credentials are lengthy standing. Because of the valley’s world-famous scorching springs, locals have used geothermal vitality for his or her heating for the reason that Nineteenth century. A mix of hydroelectric and photo voltaic crops powers a lot of the resort, and Gastein is now trialling an e-car sharing initiative for vacationers. A big proportion of its snow stays all-natural by means of the winter season, together with on the Kreuzkogel at Sportgastein, to protect the water cycle wanted for its spas.

Touring Unhealthy Gastein

Unhealthy Gastein is probably essentially the most picturesque, and on this journalist’s opinion, essentially the most romantic location within the Austrian Alps. Deep inside a steep, river-gorged valley rise belle époque motels: a vignette that wouldn’t look misplaced in a Wes Anderson movie. You received’t discover many chalets in Gastein—its centuries-old affiliation with the Austrian monarchy meant its structure got here straight from the palaces of Vienna.

In response to my information, that affiliation has outlined Unhealthy Gastein’s historic character. As we walked by means of the snowy, lamplit city overlooking the raging waters of Gastein’s titular waterfall, she defined to me that Gastein has been a website of pilgrimage for Europe’s royalty for the reason that Center Ages, when Holy Roman Emperor Frederick III visited to wash in its scorching springs.

The royal development continued into the late Nineteenth century, when Gastein’s most intently tied clientele, Emperor Franz Joseph I and Empress Elisabeth of Austro-Hungary, established it as their annual vacation spot. This era noticed the flourishing of Unhealthy Gastein’s oldest and most well-known motels, the Badeschloss and Straubinger, in addition to the growth of its spa complicated. Early Romantic maestro Schubert stayed some time, composing the Gasteiner sonata for what he deemed “essentially the most intense panorama he’d ever seen”, and Arthur Conan Doyle used the Gastein Waterfall as his inspiration for the notorious Reichenbach Falls that killed off Sherlock Holmes.

Getting into the twentieth century, Unhealthy Gastein’s miracle springs grew to become an object of fascination for Europe’s intelligentsia. Sigmund Freud was obsessive about the waters and their supposed impact on male virility and feminine fertility. Albert Einstein, Winston Churchill, and FDR got here and went, in addition to legendary Hollywood filmmaker Billy Wilder, who’d dreamed since he was a poor man within the Nineteen Twenties to remain within the luxurious resort. Finally, Marie Curie found the lively element in Gastein’s scorching springs to be the atomic ingredient radon.

These days, Unhealthy Gastein is extra a hotspot for worldwide celebrities than aristocrats. Hugh Grant and Falco are common guests, and ABBA, U2, and (based on city legend) Kurt Cobain have all graced the city’s cocktail bars.

Whereas sustaining its high-culture picture, Unhealthy Gastein now hosts main sporting occasions, together with Pink Bull’s PlayStreets city freeskiing event. Attracting tens of hundreds every February, the race sees Gastein’s slim streets crammed with snow and artifical options over which freestyle skiers compete. The week earlier than I arrived, Gastein held the FIS Snowboard World Cup, aided by the resort’s incredible off-piste and powder.

My journey was simply in time for the Lighthouse Pageant, a big techno occasion happening within the ballroom of Unhealthy Gastein’s De l‘Europe Grand Lodge. Began in 2023 by the organisers of Croatia’s a lot bigger occasion of the identical identify, the competition in Gastein is a hub for Austria’s underground techno scene and the rave communities of Salzburg and Vienna. This yr’s headliner was Berlin-based DJ Gigola, an artist who, acceptable to the resort’s health-conscious picture, introduced robust influences from Goa psytrance and yoga meditation sounds.

Should you’re simply visiting for the afternoon, an effective way to soak up the majesty of downtown Unhealthy Gastein is through the Flying Waters zipline (pictured above): a calming, hop-on-hop-off experience over the gorge dividing the city. No specialist gear is required—just a few heat garments within the wintertime and an adventurous spirit.

Snow sports activities in Gastein

A part of Gastein’s low profile on the planet of snow sports activities is its historic origin as a spa city. Whereas the valley has all the time seen its justifiable share of skiers, till comparatively not too long ago, the vast majority of its guests got here for the healing scorching springs.

That picture is altering, as Gastein invests extensively in its ski amenities. The resort now advertises itself as the last word “well being vacation”: combining lively sport with spa restoration, and good, native meals. For that reason, it’s been a success with Scandinavian vacationers and their clean-living philosophy: 25% of Unhealthy Gastein’s annual guests now come from Sweden.

I began my first day on the slopes by ascending the gondola to Stubnerkogel (2,251m), already busy at 8:40 am on a Saturday. Subsequent door to the gondola station was the rental store the place I picked up my skis, Sport Schober: a high-tech, extraordinarily environment friendly operation with excellent service in English and German.

It was a blustery day atop the Stubnerkogel, with combined snow circumstances throughout the Austrian Alps that week. Earlier than diving down the piste, nonetheless, I checked out the Hängebrücke: a 140m lengthy cable and wire suspension bridge, overhanging a gorge behind the upmost elevate station. On a windy day like then, it’s thrilling, and regardless of passing snowsqualls, I might see far in the direction of the distant mountains.

The piste was incredible: large and sweeping blues, with some nice forest runs for learners and loads of gullies for backcountry powder-seekers. A community of runs connects Unhealthy Gastein with Angertal, the ski space above Unhealthy Hofgastein. On account of excessive temperatures the week earlier than there have been some fairly icy reds and blacks within the decrease elements of the resort, not helped by tree-shade. Nevertheless, the slopes had been large and quiet sufficient to navigate even the steepest sections.

Take the chairlift as much as Hohe Scharte (2,300m), the second-highest mountain in Gastein, and also you’ll obtain some incredible views of the valley’s western rim. On the backside of a protracted and winding crimson, you’ll additionally discover Jungerstube the place I ended for lunch on day one: a incredible, conventional restaurant proper beside the Jungeralm chairlift base station. Sat in a quiet nook of the woods, the chalet-bistro may be very common with locals and affords mountain meals to please each the tastebuds and abdomen: kaspressknödel, Wagyu burgers, vegan ravioli, venison charcuterie, and naturally, apple strudel.

On my second day within the resort, I took the shuttle to Sportgastein: an outdated gold mining outpost turned freeriding, cross-country, and ski-touring centre. As there’s no lodging, Sportgastein is ideal for a day journey on a sunny Sunday, particularly after a big powder dump. Though there’s much less variation when it comes to piste (Sportgastein has just one elevate, the Goldbergbahn), the slopes are so good right here you are able to do them many times: lengthy rolling reds and clean, large blacks.

The Goldbergbahn ascends one vertical kilometre to achieve the height of the Kreuzkogel, the very best mountain in Gastein. I can’t overstate the views from the highest on day: from the town of Salzburg, 125km away, all the way in which to the Italian border. Additionally seen from the summit is the Grossglockner, the very best mountain in Austria, and the Kitzsteinhorn glacier, in addition to the complete Gastein Valley. Even in the event you’re not hitting the slopes, it’s value going up the Goldbergbahn only for that view.

Earlier than snowboarding, I used to be handled to Gastein’s Gipfelsieg & Frühstück expertise. For €66 pp, friends can take pleasure in a breakfast banquet in a heated statement deck designed by legendary modernist architect Gehard Garstenauer. Prosecco, bircher–müsli, recent omelettes, breakfast pastries, native meats and cheeses adorn a cloth-covered desk, as you recline on a fur-coated couch and look out over the white mountainside. Outdoors breakfast time, the statement deck is open to all mountaineers and is ideal for a lunchtime picnic. There are even maps of the encompassing skyline, permitting you to be taught the names of the Austrian Alps.

Beside Sportgastein’s incredible runs, a information took me off-piste because the solar was setting over the western peaks. The Kreuzkogel’s backcountry potential is huge, and from the small slice I had I can affirm it’s a few of the greatest in Austria. An enormous powder bowl greeted us on the far aspect of the summit, resulting in a pleasant lengthy traverse again across the mountain to regain the piste. Steep couloirs watched us from excessive up on the fitting, whereas unexplored paths trailed downhill to our left.

I completed a protracted day of fantastic snowboarding with a drink at Goldbergstuben, the one restaurant in Sportgastein, located at its base station. Zibernschnaps, the native liquor, is a pine-sap-infused spirit with a deep rose-gold color. It’s neither bitter nor burning, and like every little thing within the spa city, felt cleaning.

A keep on the Cesta Grand

(The Cesta Grand: Picture credit score Cesta Grand)

Throughout my keep, I used to be lucky to have a room in Unhealthy Gastein’s four-star Cesta Grand. The lodge is completely positioned to entry the slopes: an eight-minute drive from the Stubnerkogelbahn gondola, with the shuttle bus stopping proper beside the primary entrance. From the balcony of my beautiful suite, I had a panoramic view of the encompassing mountainside and stars.

The Cesta Grand exemplifies Gastein’s lodge fashion: polished, imperial design, with marble flooring and vaulted ceilings. Staying there felt as if I had been inside a Sylvanian Households dollhouse, surrounded by black-and-white photographs of friends from occasions of yore.

On my first night time, I discovered the lodge’s restaurant packed—I quickly discovered why. The meals was very good, breakfast, lunch, and dinner. On some nights the restaurant operates a buffet filled with Austrian classics: spätzle, schnitzel, consommé, parsnip soup, brown trout, and an enormous salad bar. On others a set menu runs, accompanied by dry white wine and weissbier from Higher Austria. I can extremely suggest the lodge’s tafelspitz—a staple of traditional Viennese eating.

As with most motels in Unhealthy Gastein, the Cesta Grand has in depth spa amenities together with a 16 x 7m thermal pool, a sauna and therapeutic massage parlour, and loads of loungers to lose your self in vacation studying. Beside the foyer, you’ll discover a pleasant cocktail bar and lounge, and there are many widespread areas spaced all through the complicated in the event you’re in search of someplace quiet.

Accommodations Straubinger & Bade Schloss

Whereas the rugged panorama makes up the resort’s physique, Unhealthy Gastein’s “coronary heart” is within the little sq. between the Accommodations Straubinger and Badeschloss. As the 2 oldest buildings on the town (the unique foundations courting again to the 18th century), these lovely motels are as a lot luxurious lodging as they’re historic monuments.

Sadly, from the late ’90s till only some years in the past, each buildings lay deserted as a result of a negligent investor. Solely after the investor handed away did the Governor of Salzburg intervene, permitting for very important renovations to happen. After almost thirty years mendacity empty, the Lodge Straubinger had its grand re-opening in December 2023.

Should you’re strolling by means of Unhealthy Gastein or in search of a high-end lodge suite, it’s value stepping contained in the Straubinger’s grandiose foyer. The lodge has a traditional Viennese coffeehouse inside, serving gateaux and cream-covered, alcoholic coffees (I can personally suggest the lodge’s personal Straubingerkaffee, made with Austrian eierlikör). Few modifications have been made to the unique Nineteenth-century design, with a number of lodge rooms custom-built for the royals who as soon as graced them. For dinner, a piano lounge bar and beautiful ballroom eating room provide gourmand Austro-French delicacies.

The Lodge Badeschloss has seen extra in depth modifications than the Straubinger, together with its brand-new tower, the highest three flooring of which comprise in depth spa amenities and an infinity pool. The Viennese-based architectural firm, BWM, has additionally up to date Badeschloss’s inside design. Whereas touches of imperial magnificence stay in its chandeliers, Badeschloss now options robust pop artwork, Instagram aesthetic, and Eurohostel influences. It’s described because the “sporty” lodge vis-à-vis the Straubinger, with an emphasis on snow sports activities and a youthful clientele.

Visiting the Alpentherme and Gasteiner Heilstollen

The Alpentherme, situated in downtown Unhealthy Hofgastein, is the right treatment for a tough day on the slopes. Licensed carbon impartial as of this yr, the Alpentherme is a big well being and wellness centre common with locals. Harnessing the ability of Gastein’s scorching springs, it options a number of massive swimming pools, spa therapies, and therapeutic massage parlours. Open till 22:00 on the weekend, you possibly can float outdoors within the heated pool and watch the celebrities seem over the mountains.

A phrase of warning for guests from the UK: Austrian sauna tradition is barely completely different. Count on different friends to be totally bare in the event you resolve to enter the Alpentherme’s hammam or steam room.

The “Therapeutic Galleries” or Gasteiner Heilstollen are the Gastein Valley’s distinctive attraction. They’ve garnered world consideration for his or her distinctive fashion of radon remedy, marketed by the well being clinic as “the simplest spa treatment” on the planet.

The Heilstollen are the results of WWII mining exercise beneath the Kreuzkogel, throughout which native miners didn’t strike gold however did discover massive pockets of low-level radon fuel. The identical miners reported feeling invigorated and cured of sure illnesses, together with arthritis, pores and skin, and lung circumstances. In 1952, the primary clinic opened, providing friends a 2km experience deep into the mountain for therapeutic functions.

(Gasteiner Heilstollen CREDIT steinbauer-photography.com)

Whereas it’s laborious for vacationers to guide a slot on the Gasteiner Heilstollen given its devoted clientele of round 10,000 sufferers a yr, the ability itself is of curiosity. What began as a small, out-of-the-way spa is now an enormous hospital complicated using fifty full-time employees members, with rigorous medical exams and paramedical personnel from the Pink Cross. Many of the Gasteiner Heilstollen’s shoppers are Austrian or German, half of whom are directed there by their respective nationwide well being companies. The power is totally wheelchair accessible.

As a member of the Press, I used to be capable of make the leap deep into the depths of the Kreuzkogel. Because of the presence of scorching springs within the surrounding rock, temperatures attain near 40oC and humidity 100%. Lighting is decreased to a low orange glow, with a robust, dank odor rising off each floor. After forty minutes of resting on a lounger within the gallery, I returned to the world of sunshine, dazed, however feeling cleansed. I can’t converse for the well being advantages: sufferers are sometimes booked in for eight classes over a two-week bloc, the “minimal quantity” required for long-term ache reduction based on facility medical doctors.

Thus far, the Gasteiner Heilstollen stays the surrealist expertise I’ve had on a press journey. Should you’re affected by long-term rheumatoid ache and haven’t but discovered an efficient remedy, then it is perhaps value a go to. You will discover particulars right here.

The return leg: from Salzburg to Edinburgh by prepare

As a substitute of a cramped Easyjet flight from Salzburg again to the UK, I selected the extra leisurely route. I’ve beforehand travelled to Les Arcs and Crans-Montana by prepare. Regardless of the added distance, travelling from Austria to Scotland was equally nice: giving me time to learn, work, and watch the Alpine panorama go by as a substitute of dashing by means of airport terminals.

The Nightjet from Salzburg Hbf to Paris Gare de l’Est, departing round 21:00, was essentially the most environment friendly route residence. After discovering my little cotton bunk and filling out the complimentary breakfast menu, I fell asleep to the rhythms of the prepare because the world rushed previous the window. By daybreak, we had been capturing by means of farmland east of Paris.

I had a two-hour switch window to achieve the Eurostar in Paris Gare du Nord—a ten-minute stroll from Gare de l’Est—throughout which I browsed the posh procuring within the station lounge. I had the same period of time once I arrived in London and walked subsequent door to Kings Cross, earlier than returning to Scotland the night after I’d left Unhealthy Gastein.

Getting the prepare to and out of your Alpine vacation is just not a fast fashion of journey, however it’s an sincere, unalienating one, with few ups and downs. You merely hop on, sit again, and really feel the land race beneath you, because the snowy mountains method.

Except in any other case acknowledged all photos copyright: Daniel Elkan