Tom Herbst rents a mini MPV and experiences on what it’s prefer to discover Japan’s northern (and famously snowy) island of Hokkaido by street…
Superlatives don’t do it justice. However stepping off the pizza box-like King Raise #4 in Niseko Hanazono and searching again at Mount Yotei was breathtaking. Final 12 months throughout my go to, the entire peak was shrouded in clouds so invisible. The climate this time was blue sky picture-perfect, the lively volcano punctuating the panorama like an enormous snowy barnacle, its presence made much more spectacular as the encompassing farmland is just about flat for miles round. With bushes overlaying its base, Mount Yotei (sheep hoof mountain should you actually translate the Kanji – pictured beneath) rises conical formed to 1,898m – no marvel the Japanese check with it as a mini Mount Fuji.
I’d flown into New Chitose Airport two days earlier than, taken a JR Speedy Categorical practice downtown and booked into the Sapporo View Resort within the Odori Park space of town – an opportunity to recover from jet lag and discover the capital of Hokkaido earlier than cracking on with the snowboarding. This does make sense. Typical flight routing from London by way of Tokyo and as much as Sapporo takes 17+ hours which, irrespective of how you chop it, is whoppingly tiring.
With bushes and lawns in its centre, Odori Park (pictured beneath) is a 12 block lengthy avenue within the enterprise district which runs east-west for a few mile, dominated by the 144m excessive Sapporo TV Tower at one finish. I went there first. ¥1,000 will get you to the viewing deck at a vertigo inducing 90m, providing spectacular 360° metropolis views and mountain panoramas within the distance.
Then it was a stroll to the favored Susukino procuring and meals quarter (apparently dwelling to three,500 eateries) to seek out yakitori – my selection being the wonderful Kushidori restaurant within the meals plaza hooked up to the Sapporo Tokyu Rei Resort.
Simply wandering about Sapporo is enjoyable – the lined Tanukikoji Procuring Arcade price a glance – with the neon lights and signage at night time giving the entire expertise a Ridley Scott Blade Runner vibe. And should you tire of strolling, strive a rattly avenue tram which does a central loop in 55 minutes. Tickets are ¥230.
Born Freed
My sojourn to Sapporo over, it was a forty five minute journey again to the airport to gather a car from Instances Automotive Rental. I’d deliberate it like this keep away from unnecessarily paying two further days rent.
Instances is partnered with Europcar in case you’ve by no means heard of them. Preparation is vital although. You possibly can’t simply rock up together with your DVLA photograph license and count on to drive off. A 1949-type Worldwide Driving Allow is required, obtainable for £5.50 from many comfort shops within the UK which have PayPoint. The rental agent didn’t even have a look at my UK licence – simply the paper worldwide one. So be suggested.
Instances put me right into a 1.5 litre 4WD mini MPV Honda Freed (the identical platform as a Honda Jazz however seating seven) and, though it can by no means win any magnificence awards, proved to be very gratifying to drive. At 118 bhp, the Freed isn’t any sports activities wagon both, nevertheless it was zippy sufficient and got here totally loaded together with motorised rear sliding doorways and crucially winter tyres. Don’t take a automotive with out them. And be sure you’re supplied with a snow brush and ice scraper, too. You’ll want them on a regular basis.
As Japan has a pay-to-use motorway system, renting an digital toll assortment (ETC) card additionally is sensible so you may move by the obstacles with out stopping or scrambling about for bank cards or change. This price ¥330 and was inserted right into a reader within the glovebox, with the fees settled up on return.
Mastering driving on the white stuff
On the one hand, driving in Hokkaido is simple. You drive on the left like within the UK, roads aren’t busy and pace is in kilometres. No biggie then however do keep in mind the amount of snow. There’s heaps and much and, whereas roads are diligently ploughed, the fact is you’ve acquired to be comfy with it; rally abilities of Ari Vatanen aren’t required however should you’re a nervous or inexperienced driver, then selecting different transport may be higher.
So, how greatest to manage? Suppose sniper techniques: sluggish is clean, clean is quick. Learn the street effectively forward given braking distances are longer. You’ll be amazed, nonetheless, at how grippy winter tyres are so take your time, alter to the circumstances and observe the pace limits – 50 kph in built-up areas and 70 kph on motorways (until marked).
Two different issues. First, alter your imaginative and prescient and search for larger as you drive. In cities, there are quite a few four-way junctions with visitors lights hanging from wires or gantries relatively than on black poles – take care in any other case you’ll overshoot them.
Second, satnav is an absolute should so verify Google Maps will work in your cellphone. The Freed, in fact, had GPS however this was incomprehensible given the Kanji hieroglyphics. On the airport, I purchased a 15 day 50GB information SIM from NTT Docomo for ¥8,000 which was far cheaper than my cell phone supplier’s roaming bundle.
Sapporo Bankei Ski Space
My first ski resort cease was Sapporo Bankei (above) – a 22-minute, 5.5 miles drive from town centre. It’s small with 5 lifts and 17 runs (the height is simply 482m), with views of town within the distance. I purchased a 4 hour move for ¥5,600 however, on the day I visited, solely the Orange and Central lifts had been open. Most British skiers will skip Bankei however should you’re itching to discover, do a ski ‘warmup’ or equipment shake down, then strive a fast two hour go to (passes can be found), particularly as night time snowboarding is on supply till 9pm.
Rusutsu – the fairground resort
Subsequent day, the street journey correct started. I took Route 230 southwest from Sapporo to Rusutsu – a reasonably 44 miles drive taking an hour and half – the snow-banked street wending its means over the Nakayama Cross at 835m (pictured beneath) providing tremendous views of the Shikotsu Toya Nationwide Park.
Rusutsu instantly impressed; no marvel it gained the 2024 World Ski Awards’ Finest Ski Resort in Japan – the fifth time it’s obtained that accolade. It’s a large-ish ski space: three peaks, 37 runs, 4 gondolas and 14 different lifts, with the Westin Resort dominating the panorama. Curiously, one other dominating function is an enormous amusement park proper within the coronary heart of the resort, full with Ferris wheel and curler coaster (pictured beneath). Clearly, it was closed, the wind-blown-compacted snow engulfing the rides. It appeared a relatively incongruous construction to seek out within the mountains.
Cross in hand (Epic can also be legitimate), I began on the West Mountain which is closest to the free automotive parking. Having skied the principle runs, it was over to the second space – East Mountain – on the East No 1 gondola which is actually a switch carry over flat areas and a street.
As much as the summit on the East No 2 gondola – you begin to get the naming conference – and down the beautiful Fuboru piste, it was onto one other carry – the Isola No 2 quad – to the third and ultimate peak, Mount Isola. That is the very best of the three at 994m. There I stayed having found gentle easy-to-turn powder within the bushes off the Heavenly View run. I did laps weaving my means by birch and bamboo – it’s precisely what Japanese snowboarding is all about.
After lunch at one of many meals kiosks within the Riders Villa – a semi-permanent tent construction adjoining to the principle Steamboat Cafeteria – I headed again. Time was operating out and I needed to get again on the street. Suffice to say, sooner or later in Rusutsu is solely not sufficient. It’s a brilliant place.
Niseko – the capital of Hokkaido snowboarding?
Rusutsu to Niseko just isn’t far – a 20-mile, 40-minute run north round Mount Yotei however the cross nation route demanded focus: a street floor of compacted snow, tricky-to-see edges given the failing gentle and temperatures indicated at -7°C.
Snowboarding on Mount Niseko Annupuri – altitude 1,308m – includes 4 linked ski areas: Hanazona, Grand Hirafu, Niseko Village and Annupuri. If you happen to take the time to ski in Japan, you’ll miss the Crown Jewels of Hokkaido should you didn’t go.
Having checked into the Freedom Inn – a no-frills hostelry close to the Hanazona carry (that was its attraction) – it was again into the Freed and a 10-minute sprint to the JR station in Kutchan to gather my three travelling companions – Jonny, Emily and Mike.
Our first day collectively was a blast about. Armed with an all mountain move (IKON is legitimate too), it was to the mountain prime by way of the Hanazona 1, 2 , 3 and King #4 lifts – it was chilly, however the views spectacular.
Traversing throughout, we popped into the Lookout Café for a sizzling chocolate after which entered the backcountry Mizuno no Sawa space by way of Gate 11 which affords a few of the greatest snowboarding. Steeps, bushes and open areas, the powder circumstances had been excellent as we funnelled all the way down to the gondola by the Hilton Resort in Niseko Village – the Dying Star as one in all my companions referred to it.
Heading again to Grand Hirafu, it was to the Boyo-so restaurant for a set lunch (a pockets pleasant ¥1,500), with tables circling an enormous coal fired range utilized by everybody to dry their equipment. It’s the antithesis of waiter service and snazzy inside design, the scruffy furnishings reminding me of my Nineteen Eighties college widespread room. However the meals was good.
Afterwards, we tried the Swinging Monkey and Colly’s Folly runs, earlier than snowboarding all the way down to the Hanazona base to finish the day with sizzling wine in The Edge meals corridor.
Day two was a mixture of snowboarding in Strawberry Fields, the bushes close to the G5 gate after which a brilliant run known as Miharashi, accessible after a five-minute hike off the highest of the King Gondola. Snowboarding down into Grand Hirafu once more, we took the Ace Gondola (pictured above) – a brand new, quick Doppelmayr carry which opened this season, a part of a ¥10 billion multi-year funding technique to reinforce resort amenities. It lived as much as its identify: every gondola cabin has heated seats, Wi-Fi, takes 10 folks (the earlier chair solely 4) and operates late till 7pm.
The next day was a spotlight. By means of the G3 gate – the so-called Peak Gate – we joined a procession of others and hiked to the highest of Mount Niseko Annupuri, a 40 minute boot packing to the summit (beneath).
Off piste on Jackson’s Run, we minimize our esses, gingerly navigated a cornice drop off after which hit a properly pitched open descent to wiggle by the bushes to attach again with the piste.
The Wall Road of the North and Kiroro
The subsequent leg of our tour was a 40-mile drive to Otaru, a seaside metropolis and port, well-known for seafood. Often known as the Wall Road of the North due to the variety of banks, varied ski resorts are close by comparable to Asarigawa Onsen, Kiroro, Kokusai and Otaru Tenguyama.
Otaru has an enthralling canal and warehouse district (above). Huddled underneath a kotatsu for heat – consider a quilted heated tablecloth – we putt-putt-putted on a tour boat and listened to how the 1.3 km lengthy tidal canal – accomplished in 1923 as a substitute for setting up piers – was utilized by barges to ferry items from the varied stone warehouses to boats moored at sea. Right now, solely the north canal stays, the warehouses way back modified to different makes use of, with 65 fuel powdered lamps lining the canal banks, too (beneath).
Checking into our resort – Omo 5 Otaru by Hoshino Resorts – it was time to calm down. Previously a Chamber of Commerce workplace courting again to 1933, Omo 5 opened in 2022, with a contemporary midrise annex constructed providing a complete of 92 rooms (beneath). It’s been very elegantly, tastefully and thoughtfully carried out.
And, in a nod to Otaru’s artisan heritage, the eating room and bar have shows of music containers, together with oil burning glass lamps from Kitaichi, a neighborhood agency who has been making them since 1901.
In reception, there’s a big wall mounted Go-Kinjo map – mainly native restaurant suggestions – so we tried Waraku on Route 17, a kaitensushi bar full with conveyor belt supply. Consider Yo Sushi on steroids, with high quality nigiri and a few beers simply £11 per head.
Subsequent morning, the resort’s resident information (Omo workers name them ‘rangers’) took us for breakfast on the Sankaku Fish Market. Until you may learn Kanji, you’d by no means have identified the market was there given the nondescript entrance, however having sat down within the Takeda Shokudo restaurant, we mistakenly over ordered: scallops in butter, fish donburi (roe, crab, prawns and urchin on a mattress of rice), miso soup plus a big sushi set. It was a radical different to bacon and eggs however an excessive amount of – a superb factor we may burn it off at Kiroro, the following resort we tried.
About 18 miles south from Otaru on Route 393 – half-hour within the automotive – Kiroro has two major peaks – the Nagamine and Asari – about 9 lifts, 27 or so runs and an enormous Membership Med presence. The climate, nonetheless, was awful with viz non-existent, so we stopped snowboarding after a number of runs, admitted defeat and retired to a bar. It was a disgrace. The piste map confirmed some good terrain, with 5 in-bound tree areas and a ‘Powder Experience’ zone for these wanting to enhance their deep snow abilities, none of which we acquired to strive. Like many different Japanese resorts, night time snowboarding is feasible with Kiroro closing at 7pm.
Hoshino Resorts Tomamu – the golden resort of central Hokkaido
Departing Otaru early subsequent day, the Freed fuelled up (£41 for a complete tank), it was a two and half hour, 115 miles drive east on the expressway to Hoshino Resorts Tomamu, the ETC card coming into its personal with cashless passage by the obstacles. The motorway driving was simple – twin carriageways, filtering into single lanes by varied tunnels (beneath) – with the odd deer noticed looking for meals within the adjoining snowy fields.
Tomamu’s historical past dates again to gold panning (nuggets had been discovered within the close by Horoka Tomamu River in 1909), with the ski resort developed within the financial increase of the Nineteen Eighties/early 90s when 4 121m excessive skyscrapers had been constructed – positioned as pairs – known as The Tower and Risonare (beneath).
We stayed within the south Risonare constructing on stage 21 (out of 32) which has 4 tremendous large suites per ground. The large lavatory undoubtedly deserves a plug. That includes a sauna, separate bathe room and the biggest jacuzzi tub I’ve ever seen, I guiltily stuffed it up (sure – it took a variety of water), bunged in some candy smelling salts and sat looking on the mountain views, the water jets on full blast.
The 4 ski in/out towers are linked by a lined walkway so you will get to numerous eating places with out going outdoors.
We opted for the Forest Nininupuri buffet (beneath) for breakfast and dinner (by the way, there’s an all you may drink beer supply there for ¥1800), though the Hotalu Road procuring quarter has quite a few different locations to strive. Employees are welcoming and there are good touches like complementary wine and gentle drinks within the Risonare library from 6pm every single day.
I additionally visited Mina-Mina Seaside (beneath) – an unlimited and spectacular advanced housing one in all Japan’s largest wave swimming pools at 30m x 80m. I skipped that and simply headed to the onsen for a wash, steam and soak within the sizzling (outdoors) pool.
You would possibly suppose that large skyscrapers in a resort could be ugly, however in 2007, Tokyo-based Klein Dytham structure was employed to reclad The Towers and so they’ve cleverly used a mosaic of various colored panels to assist the buildings mix into the encompassing countryside. It really works very effectively.
On piste we explored in all places – there’s 29 trails, 1 gondola and 5 chairlifts. Highlights had been the deep snow underneath the Powder Categorical carry, lunch at Cafe Sol (the freshly cooked karaage is certainly price ordering) and, having traversed off the Tower Categorical carry, we had the Grand Prix Z run (and untracked powder) to ourselves. Put merely, there’s heaps to love about Tomamu.
Enjoyable Furano
A 75-minute drive away, my ultimate resort cease was Furano (above) which is cut up into two areas and has 28 trails. First it was as much as the highest of the Kitanomine Zone at 943m, a fast image by an enormous Furano signal on the K1 run, a blap over to a hyperlink carry after which all the way down to the bottom of the Furano Ropeway – a 101 passenger cable automotive in-built 2002.
That is the first carry serving the Furano Zone which we skied, too. We did some climbing to entry untracked powder and skied varied steep tree runs to maintain issues fascinating. It was nice. Like Rusutsu, sooner or later there was not practically sufficient.
To sum it up then. Hiring a automotive provided independence, comfort and suppleness, with out the reliance and added complexity of public transport. Rental prices had been about £55 per day (an annual worldwide CDW coverage an £125 further which labored out cheaper than shopping for insurance coverage every day by way of Instances).
Clearly, should you resolve to go to only one resort like Niseko – and keep throughout your vacation – you wouldn’t want a automotive. There are free buses linking the 4 areas and the switch from New Chitose Airport is simple. Equally, should you selected to cease off in Tokyo for a number of days after which fly or practice to Sapporo (and once more keep in a single resort), then save your cash – don’t hassle with a motor.
However if you need a extra adventurous itinerary, then a automotive is actually the best way to go. Over a ten day interval, we comfortably visited six resorts, driving about 600 miles – should you have a look at a map – in a crude determine of eight. The automotive additionally gave us the choice to scope out and keep in cheaper lodging, go to locations like Otaru on the coast which I’d undoubtedly suggest, plus do some procuring on the Mitsui Outlet Park on the best way again to the airport. Right here a great deal of well-known manufacturers are on a budget (take exit 28 for Kita-Hiroshima off the E5 Expressway).
And given Japanese ski resorts are smaller than in Europe (and drive instances between them not too lengthy), attempting a number of actually does make sense, with finally the Honda – excuse the pun – giving us the Freed-dom to discover.
Helpful journey background
For automotive rental data, strive Instances Automotive Rental.
You’ll want an Worldwide Driving allow so go to the GOV.UK for particulars.
Tom Herbst was a visitor of Hoshino Resorts in Otaru and Tomamu. Charges at Omo 5 Otaru begin from ¥16,000 per room per night time (two sharing, room solely). See the net for particulars.
Charges at Risonare Tomamu begin from ¥43,800 per room per night time (two sharing together with breakfast). For extra data, go to https://hoshinoresorts.com/en/inns/risonaretomamu/
All pics credit score Tom Herbst
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