Powder, Peaks & Picnics: A Week of Ski Touring around Chamonix

4th April 2025 | Tashie Cove, Chamonix and past.

I’m again in London, sitting on my couch, sipping tea, legs nonetheless aching however coronary heart full after an unforgettable week ski touring in France, Switzerland and Italy.

Six days of pushing limits, sharing laughs, navigating steep icy traverses, and having fun with extra cake than I in all probability ought to have.

“Enterprise off the crushed monitor to find breathtaking distant areas and carve recent tracks beneath the steerage of skilled mountain guides, earlier than returning to our centrally positioned chalet,” promised the Ski Membership GB brochure.

It delivered, and extra.

Right here’s the way it all unfolded as I took The Chamonix Backcountry Exploration journey  with with guides, Jim Kerr and Simon Abrahams.

As somebody who loves snowboarding however is comparatively new to touring, I approached this journey with a mixture of pleasure and nerves.

Abandoning the pistes for untouched backcountry felt like getting into a brand new world – and Chamonix, with its towering peaks and storied alpine historical past, was the right place to start.

We have been staying at a heat and welcoming chalet run by Elle and Josie, who rapidly turned legendary for his or her day by day selfmade muffins and wonderful suppers.

In our touring group have been Clive, the reliable Ski Membership rep, and fellow skiers Abbi, George, and David.

We have been guided by the sensible Simon and Jim, who not solely saved us protected however made certain we had enjoyable too.

Dave, Abbi’s associate, wasn’t touring with us however was all the time prepared with tales and laughter once we returned within the evenings.

Saturday – Arrival & Briefing

I arrived in Chamonix within the early night, with the others ready for me on the chalet.

Simon greeted us with a complete briefing of the week forward.

He coated all the pieces – from itinerary and climate to avalanche security and what to pack in our rucksacks.

The Ski Membership had transceivers for many who wanted them.

We kicked issues off with a hearty three-course meal: warming soup, beef bourguignon, and a selfmade tiramisu.

The bar was set excessive.

We had some extra wine to help the introductions after which slipped off to mattress, excited and nervous for what the week had in retailer.

SUNDAY:

Sunday – Le Tour & First Classes

A full English breakfast ready us for our first day at Le Tour.

The Ski Membership had rented a van for the journey, sparing us the trouble of the native buses.

We began with transceiver checks led by Jim, adopted by a couple of relaxed warm-up runs to ease us in.

Simon and Jim quickly guided us to a hidden powder stash for a 15 minute stretch of wonderful recent snow.

The snow was sensible as a result of few folks got here right here, the one means again was skinning.

And so the skins got here out for the primary time – Simon and Jim reminded us methods to connect them correctly, methods to handle our layers to keep away from overheating, and the essential tip of not preserving our skis vertically standing within the snow to stop the glue from melting.

We began our quick, pleasurable 45-minute pores and skin uphill – a refresher to touring I might undoubtedly deal with.

We rapidly discovered our rhythm and I discovered myself imagining my Bernese Mountain Canine fortunately bounding alongside us, pondering how a lot she’d love this journey.

Afterwards, we practised avalanche rescue drills: utilizing probes, shovels, and transceivers to find and dig out a buried system.

Simon demonstrated intimately precisely methods to discover Jim’s hidden transceiver, which included getting low to the mountain while you’re shut and scanning the ground.

When his transceiver was about 0.3 metres away, he confirmed us methods to use the probe entering into circles across the level to seek out the “physique”.

All of us had just a little go probing one another to see what’s it feels wish to probe an individual/rucksack reasonably than a rock/grass.

Simon and Jim then confirmed us the most recent strategies for shovelling- going barely downhill to the physique and digging into the mountain to succeed in them.

The logic being that when you get to them you aren’t shovelling into their physique, however can roll them out and get to their airways rapidly.

We every took it in turns to seek out the hidden transceiver.

Not solely was this nice coaching nevertheless it was reassuring to know the folks I might be spending the week with had some follow.

Again on the chalet, we relaxed with tea and selfmade cake, adopted by a soak within the scorching tub earlier than one other wonderful supper.

Spirits have been excessive, even when muscle tissues have been beginning to really feel the primary hints of fatigue.

MONDAY:

Monday – Contamines: Blisters, Mont Blanc Views & a Slushy Shock

We woke to a different feast of a breakfast – eggs, recent bread, and sufficient espresso to kick-start even essentially the most drained legs.

Spirits have been excessive as we packed up for our first massive day exterior of Chamonix, heading for the quieter space of Les Contamines.

En route, we swung by an area sandwich store to seize picnic provides – the sort of thick, crusty baguettes that solely France appears to get excellent.

We additionally scooped up our guides, Simon and Jim, who have been on equally good kind.

Jim kindly lent me a pair of crampons to attempt for later within the week, although the thrill pale barely once we realised they didn’t match my bindings.

The crampon saga had formally begun…

The Pores and skin Begins

After one warm-up run to get our legs going and our avalanche transceivers checked, we have been quickly standing on the high of the off-piste space staring on the traverse forward.

The huge mountains stretched earlier than us, damaged solely by a faint monitor main across the shoulder of the mountain.

The blue sky above us made for essentially the most lovely of days.

We began the lengthy traverse after which hopped out of our skis to type the skins, apply lots of suncream, and take some layers off.

We started what could be a gradual 2.5-hour pores and skin.

A lot of the route adopted a mild gradient, good for settling right into a rhythm and getting a correct really feel for the uphill grind.

Jim’s sharp eye caught me fidgeting in my boots, and certain sufficient, I used to be brewing blisters.

He stopped me immediately, knelt down on the slope, and expertly patched them up.

“All the time take care of them early,” he jogged my memory, reinforcing the golden rule of touring consolation.

Grateful and re-taped, I carried on with recent dedication.

Because the pores and skin wore on, the incline steepened barely, and Simon led us by a couple of trickier sections, teaching us on environment friendly kick turns.

We tackled a enjoyable little problem: snowboarding barely downhill with skins nonetheless on.

Wobbly doesn’t fairly cowl it.

With heels unlocked and skins gripping underfoot, leaning ahead was a no-go – I felt like Bambi on ice however managed to remain upright, laughing all the best way.

A Picnic With a View

We reached the highest with sensible views of Mont Blanc.

Off got here the skins and out got here the sandwiches and thermoses as we perched on our rucksacks, gazing out over a jaw-dropping panorama.

Mont Blanc itself stood proudly on the horizon, surrounded by jagged peaks cloaked in swirling cloud.

The group sat quietly for a second, absorbing the dimensions and drama of all of it.

After lunch, we jumped again into our skis, excited to start the descent.

Though we stopped in our tracks once we realised our skis have been very sticky and felt like our skins have been nonetheless on.

Jim observed our skis had picked up a thick layer of sticky snow.

He handed us scrapers – one other touring important – and we took turns shaving off the clumps earlier than clipping again in.

The Descent – From Powder to Slush

The descent started with windblown and barely crusty snow, making for a couple of cautious, wobbly turns at first.

However as we dropped decrease, we discovered the candy spot – a stretch of soppy, forgiving powder the place each flip felt fluid and satisfying.

About midway down, we skied previous a colossal dam, an surprising man-made function amidst the wilderness.

Under it, the snow started to alter.

Crisp powder gave solution to heavy slush as we descended additional.

We discovered a brief pitch by some bushes providing a couple of remaining pretty turns earlier than – slap – again into sticky spring snow.

Finally, the snow thinned out fully.

Off got here the skis, and we hiked throughout a grassy patch, boots crunching on naked floor, to succeed in a connecting piste.

A number of chairlifts later and we have been cruising again in the direction of Les Contamines.

A fast drink on the base was simply what we wanted to toast a difficult, however rewarding day.

Then it was a 40-minute drive again to Chamonix, feeling barely drained however buzzing.

There was nonetheless one remaining mission to finish: sorting my crampons.

Making an attempt out nearly the entire ski retailers on the town, I couldn’t discover any retailers that had any crampons that fitted my bindings.

Jim had advised me I didn’t want them for tomorrow, however I might for the remainder of the week.

After wandering round countless retailers and my frustrations constructing, I made a decision to name it an evening on the crampons search.

On the chalet, Elle and Josie had outdone themselves once more – a recent cake awaited on the desk, nonetheless barely heat.

After a scorching bathe and a soak within the scorching tub, we felt able to deal with dinner obligation ourselves, because it was Elle & Josie’s well-earned night off.

They’d left us an enormous pot of selfmade chilli con carne with all of the trimmings – bitter cream, nachos, rice, and a guacamole so recent and zesty it disappeared nearly immediately.

And simply once we thought we couldn’t eat one other chew, we noticed the cheese board – a beneficiant unfold of native alpine cheeses that topped off the meal completely.

TUESDAY:

Tuesday – Courmayeur Powder, Tree Snowboarding & Après Vibes

We woke to a different hearty chalet breakfast – pastries, eggs, the works – as Clive gathered us spherical and shared the plan for the day forward.

Courmayeur was on the playing cards, pleasure buzzed across the desk.

It’s one of many joys of staying in Chamonix – in lower than an hour you could be over the border and snowboarding in Italy.

Certain sufficient, we loaded up the van and picked up our guides en route, chatting away as we cruised by the Mont Blanc tunnel.

Rising onto the Italian aspect, we have been greeted by bushes heavy with recent snow and that unmistakable buzz of recent powder.

A fast drive to the underside of the raise and we have been quickly making our means up.

Regardless of a couple of clouds hanging round, the sight of all that untouched snow had us itching for these first turns.

Tree Snowboarding & Japow Flashbacks

The morning was a flurry of off-piste exploration.

Our guides led us by quiet gullies and superbly spaced bushes, bouncing by powder that had me reminiscing about my current PlanetSKI journey to Japan this season and people unbeatable ‘JaPow’ days.

One of many beauties of ski touring and heading uphill for hours on finish is to free your thoughts and see what pops in.

I’m a relative novice, however I find it irresistible.

Within the current the snow was delicate, recent, and forgiving – good for ducking out and in of the bushes.

Every so often, we’d catch glimpses of Courmayeur’s jagged peaks by breaks within the cloud.

Late morning merged into lunchtime, and we discovered ourselves tucked into a country mountain restaurant.

A plate of handmade ravioli, drizzled in sage butter, and a glass of one thing native hit the spot completely.

There’s simply one thing about snowboarding in Italy – the meals all the time delivers.

The post-lunch runs noticed us again into the powder, linking top-to-bottom descents with large grins all spherical.

However no day is full with out a little bit of drama – second-to-last run, one in every of our group discovered a rock lurking beneath the snowpack, tearing a large gap within the base of his rental ski.

Fortunate it occurred close to the top of the day, much less fortunate when he was hit with a €400 invoice to switch it.

With legs properly and really cooked, we wrapped up and made the quick hop again by the tunnel to Chamonix.

Again on the town, whereas the others peeled off, I dashed to the ski rent store on a mission – crampons have been now high precedence.

Tomorrow’s plan concerned glacier journey, and the guides had already briefed us within the van on what we’d want: harnesses, crampons, sleeping bag sheets, avalanche package, snacks, and the same old hut necessities.

After visiting a string of outlets and slowly feeling the stress mount, Snell Sports activities got here to the rescue – the final pair of crampons in inventory that might match my bindings.

Consequence.

With package lastly sorted, I joined the crew at Chambre Neuf.

The après scene was in full swing – stay band blasting out classics, folks dancing on tables, and jugs of beer being handed round like confetti.

Courmayeur to Chamonix and straight into occasion mode – traditional Alps.

We wandered again to the chalet the place Elle and Josie had whipped up one other cracking supper.

Bellies full, it was time to pack for the following day’s journey.

Sleeping bag sheets, head torches, crampons (phew), harness, snacks – test, test, test.

The guides’ warnings to “pack gentle however sensible” echoed in my thoughts as I attempted to cram all the pieces into my rucksack.

As I crawled into mattress, package packed and prepared, the nerves kicked in.

Tomorrow we’d be heading out into the excessive mountains, staying in a single day in a distant hut.

I couldn’t resist a late-night Google of the refuge, Lämmerenhütte – perched up amongst glaciers and peaks, it appeared spectacular.

A mixture of nerves and pleasure made sleep really feel like a good distance off.

Wednesday – Into the Wild: Skinning, Kick Turns & Crevasse Rescue

I wakened feeling a cocktail of nerves and pleasure – at present was the massive one.

We’d be heading deep into the mountains and spending the night time at a distant hut.

There’s all the time that little bit of apprehension when you already know you’ll be removed from the comforts of civilization, however principally I used to be buzzing to get going.

With Elle & Josie off for a well-earned morning break, we had the run of the chalet kitchen.

We prepped our personal porridge and boiled eggs– easy, however simply the gas we wanted.

It’s one of many perks of our setup; all the pieces was tremendous user-friendly, and it felt good to have free rein for a change.

Our guides, Jim and Simon, arrived on the chalet and earlier than we might even take into consideration leaving, we had a full package test – harnesses, avalanche gear, crampons, skins, layers – ticked off one after the other.

Van loaded, we set off on the 1 hour 45-minute drive to Leukerbad, crossing into Switzerland.

We made a fast pit cease at a bakery to select up sandwiches for our picnic later.

The scent of recent bread and pastries was sufficient to make us need to scrap the packed lunch plan and eat there on the spot.

As soon as in Leukerbad, we grabbed a return raise ticket for the Gemmi Cross – no full-day move wanted at present.

A fast ski down a winding little monitor led us to the spot the place layers have been rapidly shed; skinning all the time warms you up quicker than you suppose.

The primary hour was a mild pores and skin alongside a path.

The tempo was calm, giving us time to talk, take within the snowy environment, and steeling ourselves for what we knew was coming – the looming steep part forward.

As we reached the foot of the steeper face, we noticed a gaggle of 5 forward inching their means throughout an intimidatingly steep and icy slope.

Time for a sandwich and a second to regroup whereas Jim headed as much as widen the kick turns space along with his shovel.

As we equipped, a kindly older Swiss information skied previous, warning Jim with a smile that this may be a bit a lot for “girls of a sure age.”

We couldn’t assist however giggle – two of us have been in our 30s.

Barely amused and barely defiant, we pressed on.

The primary few kick turns have been manageable, and confidence grew with each profitable pivot.

By the fourth, issues obtained trickier – the snowbank above made it arduous to swing the skis round cleanly.

Jim stationed himself just under, prepared to assist anybody in want, however we dug in and pushed on.

Then got here the notorious icy traverse.

I locked my eyes on the snow forward, decided to not look down.

Crampons biting into the slope, extendable poles adjusted – one lengthy, one quick – I edged throughout the face.

Each step required complete focus.

It felt prefer it went on eternally, however slowly and steadily, all of us made it throughout and breathed a collective sigh of reduction on the opposite aspect.

Simon later advised us this was in all probability one of many steepest kick turns we’d ever should deal with on skis – any steeper and we’d be switching besides crampons.

With the toughest half behind us, it was a gradual 45-minute pores and skin up a mild incline.

Finally, the hut emerged on the horizon like a beacon.

Stripping our skins off, we arrived to discover a well-organised refuge, full with a boot room, drying racks for skins, and – to our delight – a whole wall lined with Crocs in each dimension possible.

Inside, we discovered our rooms, which have been extra spacious than I’d anticipated.

Luggage stashed and boots swapped for hut sneakers, we took a fast breather earlier than the following journey started.

Harnesses again on, we headed exterior with the guides for some glacier security coaching.

The dangers of touring on a glacier have been laid out clearly – it was sobering however important stuff.

Jim demonstrated methods to dig a trench and anchor skis within the snow to create a makeshift pulley system.

Simon then took over, exhibiting us three completely different crevasse rescue strategies utilizing ropes, slings, and pulleys.

When it got here time for somebody to volunteer because the particular person within the crevasse (a makeshift ditch), I put my hand up – figuring it will be fairly helpful to expertise what it’s wish to be the one within the gap.

I dangled just under because the workforce practiced hauling me out, step-by-step.

Again inside, we warmed up with tea and snacks earlier than getting caught into knot follow necessities for glacier journey.

Dinner was precisely what we wanted after an enormous day – hearty bowls of soup, bolognese with salad, and a chocolate mousse for dessert.

The hut employees have been extremely welcoming and had all the pieces operating like clockwork.

In a while, Clive hosted a music quiz for our group, which turned out to be a superb giggle – an effective way to unwind within the cosy hut environment.

I used to be fairly happy to finish up on the successful workforce.

With full stomachs and drained legs, we hit the hay early, prepared for regardless of the mountains had in retailer for us the following day.

Thursday – Battling the Blizzard, Topping Out on Steghorn & Powder Rewards

A 6:30am alarm meant an early begin on the hut.

The eating room was already buzzing with different skiers and mountaineers preparing for their very own adventures.

We fuelled up on a easy however hearty breakfast of cereal, porridge, and toast – the necessities for what could be probably the most difficult days up to now.

With bellies full, we packed up, stated goodbye to the welcoming hut employees, and stepped exterior to prep our gear.

The fog was thick, the wind starting to whisper ominously, however spirits have been excessive.

Our guides gave us a fast briefing: there have been three doable aims for at present, relying on how the climate developed.

After assessing situations, they pointed us in the direction of the Steghorn (3,147m) – a formidable peak that promised an enormous reward if we might summit.

I’ll admit, realizing we’d be skinning throughout a glacier did weigh on my thoughts.

The considered crevasses lurking beneath the snow was arduous to disregard, however I saved reminding myself of yesterday’s coaching and the truth that we had two distinctive guides main us.

The primary stretch of skinning was calm, however as we gained elevation, the wind started to whip, snow began falling sideways, and earlier than lengthy, we have been trudging by what felt like a full-blown blizzard.

After round three hours of relentless strolling, steep in most locations, we lastly discovered some shelter behind an enormous rock and grabbed a fast snack.

The guides cheerfully advised us there have been “simply” 45 minutes to go.

David quipped, “45 minutes up for two minutes down – let’s go!”

His humour lifted the temper, at the same time as fatigue began to set in.

From there, it was a real check of grit – steep kick turns, sideways snow blasting our faces, and each step requiring extra dedication than the final.

I undoubtedly hit a wall at this level, feeling each inch of altitude in my legs.

However with heads down and focus sharpened, we pressed on.

Lastly, rounding a snowy nook, we noticed the summit cross – a welcome sight by the swirling wind.

Aid and exhilaration washed over us as we clipped off our skins, bracing towards the howling gale.

The summit was completely freezing, however the accomplishment of attending to the highest felt value each battle.

The descent started in windswept snow – the primary few turns have been tough with hardpack beneath – however inside a couple of moments, we broke by right into a pocket of sheltered powder.

It’s arduous to place into phrases the sensation of snowboarding down that slope.

The snow was delicate and ideal, and each flip felt so hard-earned after the powerful climb.

There’s one thing about incomes your turns that offers every flip an additional which means – it was pure magic.

Laying down recent tracks, we met a number of teams nonetheless slogging uphill, grinning as they noticed us floating previous in good snow.

Large smiles have been exchanged all spherical – a beautiful second of shared mountain camaraderie.

Finally, we discovered ourselves close to the hut once more however veered off to a special route than yesterday’s steep climb.

A protracted traverse above the valley gave us time to replicate on the morning’s problem earlier than dropping again down.

From there, we started the acquainted 1-hour pores and skin throughout the flat valley flooring, now shrouded in thick fog.

It felt surreal retracing our steps from yesterday, seeing the identical panorama however from a very completely different perspective.

Again on the restaurant on the high of the Gemmi Cross, we handled ourselves to some well-earned rosti – crispy, golden, and the right finish to an epic two-day tour.

With weary legs, we bundled into the van for the 1 hour 45-minute drive again to Chamonix.

I barely stayed awake for the primary 10 minutes earlier than drifting off into one of many deepest automobile naps of my life.

Arriving again on the chalet, we have been greeted by the acquainted scent of recent carrot cake.

An early supper adopted, earlier than we just about collapsed into mattress – drained, pleased, and pleased with what we’d completed.

Friday – Powder Day in Chamonix and a Particular Remaining Night

We woke as much as the sort of pleasure that solely comes from recent snow and blue skies peeking by the curtains.

After yesterday’s epic touring journey, we have been all feeling the tell-tale ache in our legs, however the promise of a powder day near dwelling was sufficient to get us shifting.

Breakfast was one other comforting unfold, and over espresso we chatted about how fortunate we’d been with the snow situations all week, the cloud might have lifted at instances however the snow had been nice due to Simon and Jim’s skilled navigation.

As we speak, the guides had deliberate a enjoyable day of off-piste snowboarding round Chamonix – a extra relaxed however nonetheless adventurous day to cap off the journey.

The drive to the raise station at Les Grands Montets was fast, reminding us once more simply how completely positioned Chamonix is for simple entry to a number of resorts.

As soon as up the mountain, we have been rewarded with delicate powder snow and clear views of the encompassing peaks – a picture-perfect remaining day.

Sadly my legs had given in, every flip weighed heavy.

I made a decision to separate from the others and loved some piste snowboarding.

The resort was nearly abandoned so I had large pistes to get pleasure from all to myself.

After a couple of runs I popped my skins, sunnies and headphones on and skinned up the aspect of a path.

Skiers skid previous me with a humorous look on their face in all probability pondering “why doesn’t she simply get the raise”.

I smugly return their smiles pondering to myself “little have you learnt the place these skins can take you”.

After snowboarding, we headed straight again to Chambre Neuf for just a little dance on the tables earlier than we had our remaining meal on the chalet.

We have been greeted by Elle & Josie who had been busy making ready a particular remaining night for us.

The scent of one thing unbelievable cooking crammed the air and there was an unmistakable celebratory environment.

A glass of bubbly was ready for every of us earlier than dinner, and we toasted to an unforgettable week –  filled with challenges, laughs, and nice turns.

Dinner that night was an absolute deal with – a selfmade feast.

Afterwards, all of us gathered round for a remaining drink, sharing our favorite tales from the journey, grateful for the adventures we’d had and the friendships we’d developed.

We headed to mattress with drained legs, full hearts, and the quiet satisfaction that comes from per week properly spent within the mountains.

I used to be hooked on ski touring and I knew this was solely the beginning of many a long time of  adventures away from the marked runs and  and ski lifts.

Let the journey start.

What You Must Know:

See right here for full particulars of the Ski Membership vacation: The Chamonix Backcountry Exploration.

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